![]() |
45 Miles in 48 Hours by Tony Thoman
|
It has always been a dream of mine to hike the entire
Appalachian Trail from Georgia to Maine. And it is a dream I will fulfill
someday ... just not today. Like most people who hold down jobs and have
families, taking 6 months off on a solitary journey just isn't going to
happen ... for a while. So for now, I am happy chipping away at the trail,
doing one section here and another section there. So far, I have done
almost all of Connecticut, and big chunks of New Jersey, New York, Massachusetts,
Vermont, New Hampshire, and Maine. |
|
One evening in July my wife Maureen suggested I get away for two days and enjoy some time on the trail, which I hadn't done in quite a while. "Of course I would like to hit the trail, but when?" I replied. "Tomorrow", Maureen declared. Well that seemed totally ridiculous, as I wasn't ready, and knew I would leave me little time to shop and pack up. Well, believe it or not, I was on the trail by 5 PM the next evening, with 48 hours to myself. I was packed with tent, sleeping bag, and all the other items I would need for the next two days. I had packed hastily, and didn't want to bother with cooking, so I packed lots of energy bars, nuts, a couple vegan bulgur salads from a health food store deli, a bunch of mangos, and a few bottles of Starbucks coffee lattes. I was breaking every rule of backpacking by carrying heavy ripe fruit, and of all items, bottled coffee, but I didn't want to bother with a stove, and I needed my caffeine. I also carried enough water to cross the Sahara, as I really didn't know what the water situation would be like on my journey. I was going to tackle a pretty sizable slice of the Appalachian Trail. Starting a couple miles north of Pawling on Friday (and a few miles west of the Connecticut line), I had to be at the Bear Mountain bridge by Sunday evening. I was going to catch a train at a hiker's stop just north of the bridge at 5 PM, and then take the train home to the Bronx from there. I could not miss this train, or I would have to resort to calling someone to pick me up ... and that just wasn't going to happen for this proud hiker! The total mileage would be about 45 miles, as I would cut a south west diagonal across Dutchess and Putnam counties. I was supremely confident I would be able to do such massive mileage, as I felt I knew the area, was in pretty good shape, and knew that I wasn't going to be climbing any major peaks. For goodness sakes, I was basically going to be hiking through suburbia for the most part! |
Of course, I have a tendency to underestimate challenges facing me on any kind of venture I undertake, and this was going to be no exception! My foes would be humidity, terrain, and insects, in that order. July is not the best month to backpack for a good reason. When it is 80 degrees out, and the humidity level at 90%, it is fine to go for a walk, but to take on a hike with a heavy backpack is another story. Right from the first mile, I was dripping with sweat, and my back was soaked. I occasionally would stop, take off my pack, and wring out what seemed to be a quart of water from my shirt. I had to get used to feeling like I was a saturated sponge all the time. There are few major high elevation points in this stretch of trail. The highest I believe is Shenandoah Peak at around 1,300 feet. Yet, the trail constantly is on either an up or down. To compound matters, the trail surface is quite rocky, and in some sections rather treacherous. It was necessary to keep my eyes on the trail at all times to prevent some kind of ankle twist. Finally, there were plenty of insects to accompany me throughout the hike. I found it hard to hang out long at any rest stop, as the mosquitoes and gnats would find me soon enough. I'm sure my over heated, soaked body was the perfect wet and stinky magnet for anything with wings that liked to bite! As I was to find out later, an insect not known for flying was also feasting on me. |
![]() |
So, I hiked and hiked ... and hiked. I rested little, and just kept moving as steadily as I could. The only rest stops involved filling the water bottles at pumps, and eating energy bars, or burying my face in another mango (they have never tasted so good!) For the most part though, I was finding much to appreciate. The landscape was absolutely lush. The streams were full, gushing with crystal clear water, and the glens full of oversized ferns and laurel. Along one surreal stretch of trail, I hiked by a remote and stunningly blue body of water surrounded by towering oaks, to find out later that it was called Nuclear Lake. As it turned out, the trail went through a wild landscape with few hints of the teeming city and suburbs that were never far away. Unfortunately, the air was like pea soup, and it was hard to see more than a mile at the overlooks. I saw very few hikers. The hikers that I did come across were thru hikers, and for the most part, they were in their 50's or older. Many of them had retired, and had the time to pursue such a journey. One man told me he was 85. All of the hikers I met were right on schedule, and were planning to be in Maine by September. I was truly inspired by these hikers, and it gave me comfort knowing that I have plenty of good years ahead of me. Even though my knees may finally give out on me from running, I can always resort to hiking. For the most part, it was a truly peaceful journey. I did hear roads at times, and there were two stretches where the trail was not far from Interstate 84 and the Taconic Parkway, but other than that, the only sounds were those of song birds, frogs, and the steady hum of insects. At the end of each day, I felt crushing fatigue. I basically hiked as long as my body would let me. On both Saturday and Sunday, I put in roughly 20 miles a pop. I was happy not to have to worry about setting up a stove, cooking, and cleaning pots. But the vegan meals were not particularly tasty, and I was just shoving the food in my mouth to get my needed nourishment. Both nights I stayed in my tent without the suffocating rain fly, as it was so hot, and the air so still, I needed to capture any faint breeze that came by. I slept on top of my bag, and realized that was one item I really didn't need. As I lay my tired body down, I could feel my shoulders relax, and the fatigue evaporate. On the second night in Fahnestock State Park, I could hear nothing but frogs at a nearby pond, and the usual chorus of crickets. The last day was the roughest. My back was particularly sore from the hiking the day before, and the air was only getting heavier. It looked like the sky was going to burst, but I never dealt with much more than a few drops here and there. I knew I was going to make it when I hiked through the Greymoor monastery grounds, with one more ridge to hike before the Hudson River. On the last ridge, I could hear the Metro North trains, but I could never see the river below, as the sky was too hazy. As I sauntered down the last hill to the Manitou station, I still had an hour to kill. I had made it! To celebrate, I grazed through a few raspberry thickets. Before I knew it, I was on an air conditioned Metro North train heading to Spuyten Duyvil. In little more than an hour, I was setting foot in my home. My wife and son were standing in the rain, waiting for me at the train station. When I got home, I was pleased to find that Maureen had fixed a delicious meal, had chilled a few Saranac Black and Tans, and had a bath with Epsom salts waiting. Could I be happier? This is exactly the kind of greeting every backpacker dreams of after a few days on the trail! Thank you Maureen!! Well, that is the way every backpack should end, but there is a PS to this story. After my bath, I finally got a chance to take a close look at my body, and sure enough, I found a tiny tick right below my shoulder. I pulled it out with tweezers, and stored it away in a zip lock bag. I'm glad I did that, as I was able to present it to my doctor when I thought I was starting to show signs of having lyme disease. The following weekend, I ran the strenuous Escarpment Run, and afterwards, I experienced alternating waves of fever and chills. I didn't have the telltale bull's eye rash where I was bitten, but I wasn't going to waste time checking out my situation with the doctor. Fast forward to the next week, and I am now feeling recovered and energetic. The thing I pulled out indeed was a deer tick, but my tests for lyme disease came out negative. So, who knows what kind of demon my body was fighting that day. Maybe doing 45 miles with a backpack in 48 hours, and 18 miles of the Catskills in five hours was too much for my body to bear in the span of one week. Looking back, tick bite or not, both weekends tested me to the fullest. Yet, knowing me, I will be out on the trails again soon, whether it is with hiking boots or running shoes. I'm sure by the time I embark on my next adventure, I will have forgotten the pain, and will be scoffing at the challenges. Some people just never learn. |
| Tony Thoman August, 2004 |
Go back to home page for newsletters
Go back to home page for vctc.org